The Way of The Wave

Energy, flow, rhythm, focus and self-discipline all contribute to the life of every Surfer and every Martial Artist. It could also have as much influence over the masses if they tuned into their self-conscious. When thinking of Surfing I have always been able to visualize, sense memorize and sensually experience riding a wave or many waves. It goes without saying that in Martial Arts I am affected the same way. In the same manner that I feel the energy or rise of the wave as it picks me up and I match it’s speed, I can also feel my own energy (Chi) rise within me as I prepare to do a form or Kata. As I drop into the wave I am not just pushing my weight to the bottom of the wave to gain speed for any upcoming maneuvers, I am also letting my mind project much further down the line. It’s not just projection to the very next step, but many steps down the line. Coming off the bottom of the wave and heading for the lip of the wave I am then un-weighting and thus making myself as light as the spray cascading over the back of the wave. It is my belief that one good turn deserves another and you should never come out of a turn slower or even at the same speed. You should always come out of a turn faster than when you go into the turn or it is a waste of energy. I have also always believed that the fins on a surfboard can be used to gain thrust out of a turn by playing the forces of stress and flex against on another. In harmony the results can be quite impressive. In the same way as I view riding a wave I would also view an entire form. I will see nearly every upcoming section, turn, cut back and every possible barrel coming my way. The more steps that are in a Martial Art’s form the more this comes into play. The more imaginary opponents faced in a form the more times your mind projects down the line through the moves required to overcome those opponents. The more you free up your mind the more you will be able to see both of these disciplines as they were meant to be seen, felt and experienced.

I have heard many Martial Artists mention that there are times when working out, in the middle of a form, they will describe a time when they seem to be in a “zone” or that time seemingly slowed down. This same sensation occurs to many surfers who are pulling inside a wave that is breaking over their entire body as they travel through the ”barrel” for one of the most unique experiences in the universe. It is as if you are able to low down time. Is this as close as we can become to touching a parallel universe? How is this explained in the grand scale of the time space continuum? . Is this as close as we can become to touching a parallel universe? How is this explained in the grand scale of the time space continuum? Surely we aren’t slowing time or is this merely another sensation? As the Martial Artist follows the flow of their energy (Chi) the surfer follows the flow of their own energy matched with the energy of the wave and the entire ocean. Once completely focused, both energies surpass the human experience. The Chi felt by every Martial Artist practicing a form and every Surfer on a wave is universal. The flow of each discipline as well as the rhythm it requires to become one with the form or to become one with the sea is something that each one of us has the opportunity to share with every generation that follows us. It is this gift that I cherish. It is this gift that I cannot wait to share.

Alvin Farmer